Okay so, this week we went to Osage Beach Missouri for our next project we had no idea what the floor condition was other than the age of the floor the reason being it had carpet installed when they built the home, but what we did know about this floor is anytime it has carpet it’s gonna have glue and tack strips with that being said this floor had both so I knew we would have some glue to remove and tack strip holes to repair and of course concrete does crack so there were a few those as well.

We went in we pulled all the carpet, all the tack strips, and discovered several cracks, so we opened up the cracks to repair them and did the same with the tack strip holes once all the repairs were done we just basically ground everything down flush with the concrete all of our repairs that is and removed the carpet glue now we have a fresh surface or clean canvas to work from.

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Watch the video below and you’ll see almost everything we did to that floor, so the next steps were to start our base coat which on this floor we just started with two white base coats no color 100% coverage, after that our next step was to add our texture which is a Tuscan Slate this takes a lot more time and a lot more skill, but it’s easy once you understand how to do it… This coat goes down at about 85% coverage.

So after the textures down we want to add are ACID STAINS, but obviously first we have to prep everything off with paper because we do spray our acid stains, this floor is getting two colors one is an Umber color and the other is a Brown Acid Stain, most of the time I never get this the first time, usually it takes 2 to 3 coats of acid stain per color to get the right marbling and correct shade I’m looking for.

Now that the Acid Stains are down we just gotta let it do its thing and come back later and scrub it all up and rinse it with ammonia and water shop vac it and let it sit at least 24 hours before we come back and put our CLEAR EPOXY over the top, next we put a UV protection coat over the top of the clear epoxy and this project is complete!!

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This week we’re at a condo complex in Greenview Missouri, this is an upper suspended deck with a gorgeous view, the homeowner wanted to do a solid seamless knockdown finish in a chocolate color.

We begin our work morning like we do most every job we grind the surface with our walk behind and hand grinders open up any cracks and repair, and then grind the repairs flush. Once the surface has been thoroughly profiled we get it all cleaned up and ready for concrete.

The next step of the process is to lay out a base coat of colored concrete once that’s down we add a second coat, that’s pretty much all we did the first two days.

Our third day we came in and prepped all of the walls, glass, and railing… Set up our mixing station and sprayed our concrete with our hopper gun, then knocked it down with our trowel…. Simple process.

Today we came back pulled down all the paper knocked down all the concrete burrs, cleaned it up real well and put on two coats of our premium sealer.

Overall this is a very simple process and does not take us very long.

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Today were going to be in Osage Beach MO working on a Showroom Floor!!

This floor currently has a checkered plastic tile that snaps together so what we’re going to do is remove that, once the checkered plastic tile is removed we’re going to breakout our new floor grinder and grind off the concrete paint that is under that tile.

Once we have the concrete paint removed from the concrete surface the pores are now open to receive our New Epoxy Floor System. But wait… There is some damage to this concrete as it is at least 20 years old what I mean by damage is there are TONS of pot marks, several large and long cracks that need our attention first, so we go in open up the cracks and repair them the same goes for the pot marks we fill and level them up and then grind everything flush.

So now we breakout the mixer, open up the cans of our two-part epoxy and go to work!!

Since this is such a large area and there is only 2 of us I’m just gonna put half the epoxy down, throw some Vinyl Chips then do the second half the same way normally I would do the entire floor and throw the chips, but with just two of us, time being a factor it just makes sense.

Okay that was pretty easy,,, so now the next step is let it dry come back the next day will scrape everything down get all the loose chips removed from the floor cleaned up and will be ready for the clear Epoxy.

Everything looks good we have the floor scraped clean and ready for clear Epoxy this time because we do not obviously have any vinyl chips to throw down were just going to mix and pour this entire floor in one shot.

Last day on this job the only step that we have to complete today is to put a protective coat over our epoxy which will make it much more durable.

Well that was FUN!!

This job is now complete, this is the same system that we use for our garage floors it’s tough, it’s durable, long-lasting and dresses up any space that you may have.

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We had some great concrete to work with on this particular project, the home was only about three years old and the concrete was in almost perfect condition there was one large crack that ran from one side of the slab to the other side on the lower outside patio/deck other than that the concrete was awesome to work with and so were the people!

The total square footage on this project was approximately 500sqft, the finish is Tuscan slate the coloring is a charcoal antique stain.

The prep work consisted of grinding out the loose material in the crack on the back patio deck, once we had it opened and cleaned we poured our material inside of the crack overflowing it letting it cure and grinding it down flush. There was some grinding here and there on the slab the walkway and the front stoop but it was very minimal, our next step was to mix up the muriatic acid and ammonia in separate buckets then put on our muriatic acid first followed by our ammonia and water mix once this was thoroughly scrubbed in we hooked up a pressure washer and pressure washed everything clean.

Once the prep work was out-of-the-way, we set up our workstation and proceeded to mix our first bucket of concrete, next step we applied our base coat of colored concrete, once the base coat was applied on all surfaces we continued to mix our concrete only a little bit lighter for the texture coat which is our Tuscan slate, once the first surface was dry we continued to apply our texture coat on top of the base coat on all surfaces.

The next day we came back prepped all the walls with paper or anything we didn’t want the antique stain to color, from there I mixed up enough antique stain to do the entire job once mixed we sprayed it down, sometimes you don’t always get it right the first time so we had to spray a second coat on (to darken more) until I got the look that I wanted once that was on all we could do was let it dry, we came back the next day and we put two coats of our premium CSS sealer on it.

Wrapped up a pretty simple job, but it turned out great… The homeowners were happy and so was I.

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I get Asked this Question more than any, can you ballpark a cost….understandable, but there are a number of factors that can substantially increase or reduce the installation cost of a decorative concrete floor. Some you can control, such as the complexity of the project, and others you can’t, such as the floor size and existing condition. Here are the issues that can have the biggest impact on what you’ll pay:

Size of the Floor – Typically, the larger the floor area, the lower the cost per square foot for installation due to the economies of scale. A small residential floor project, for example, is likely to cost more per square foot than a large 50,000-square-foot commercial floor.

Material Requirements – Using multiple colors of stain or dye on your floor or a specialty epoxy or metallic coating will not only increase your material costs, but also the labor costs for installation.

Design Complexity – The more complex your project, the greater the costs for both materials and labor. Customizations such as embedded objects, decorative sawcuts, stenciled designs, and the installation of metal divider strips may increase the total floor cost substantially. (But the results will look amazing!)

Current Condition of the Floor – Existing concrete floors that require a lot of patching or surface preparation will boost your total installation cost because these flaws will need to be repaired before the final decorative finish can be applied. Extensive surface preparation, such as grinding, crack repair, and spall repair, can add as much as $2 per square foot to the overall cost of the floor. If a full resurfacing is needed, expect to tack on another $2 to $3 per square foot (for a $4 to $5 per square foot increase).

Floors on Grade vs. Above-Grade Installations – Decorative concrete floors installed on raised decks or subfloors will need a cement underlayment installed before the finished floor can be applied. Typically installers put down a series of products including waterproofing, metal lathe, a concrete overlay and then the final finishing and sealing coats. These applications can add another $2 to $3 per square foot to the cost of the floor.

Moisture-Vapor Transmission – Some floors have a high level of moisture-vapor transmission that will need to be remedied before most decorative coatings, overlays or sealers can be applied. This is usually not an issue with stained or polished concrete floors, although it can affect the color.

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